If you live in the north, chances are
you've parked your machine for the season !! Even if the weather's not
that cold where you live, the problems caused by not winterizing your bike have more to do with the
amount of time the bike is sitting, than the actual temperature.
Most spring running problems come from
failure to properly store the bike for winter !! While you're indoors
celebrating the holidays, don't forget about your bike !! Is your battery
draining out it's last volts, while last October's fuel is varnishing
& clogging your bike's carbs or injectors ??
Here are some tips for keeping your superbike
running right for your first ride of 2003 !
The Cooling System
During the cold winter months, you'll want to have aluminum safe antifreeze in your bike. Race bikes are
often damaged during the winter since racing regulations
don't allow the use of glycol antifreeze. I've seen cylinder heads crack and
water pumps burst when racers forgot they had straight water in
them! You should at least drain out all the water, but it's much better to have 50% glycol anti
freeze in the system to prevent the seals from drying up. Water Wetter type
products will freeze, so if you're not sure what's in your system, drain
it and use a fresh mix of distilled water and glycol antifreeze. Remember
to drain the coolant and put 100% water back in for the first race !!
Fuel
Stabil fuel stabilizer can be purchased at most auto or motorcycle
stores. Fill the tank according to the instructions on the container, then
run the
stabilized fuel through the system. Turn the petcock off, and run the bike
until it stumbles from lack of fuel, then use the choke to run it
completely dry. Most of the running problems & carb overhauls in
springtime can be avoided by just spending 15 minutes to do this !!
Oil
While the engine is still warm, drain the oil and remove the filter.
Once most of the oil is drained, hit the starter a couple of times to get
the excess oil on the gears to fling off and drain out. Replace the drain
plug, add fresh oil,
fill a new stock oil filter to the top with oil and install it. Now that
you've got fresh oil in the engine, don't
start your bike !! The moisture and
acids that are the by-products of combustion will
contaminate your new oil and can cause corrosion during the months ahead.
Rings and Valves
The quality of your combustion seal is the most
important factor in how well your bike will accelerate next summer. The #1
enemy of the valves and rings is rust & corrosion. Motorcycle
engines are especially prone to rusting on the seats and valves. Remove
the carbs and spray the valves and seats with a light fog of WD 40 or Tri-Flow lubricant.
Then remove the spark plugs and
blast some down into the cylinders.
Battery
Avoid having to buy a new battery at the start of
riding season !! Take it out now and store it where it's warm and well
ventilated. What about charging ? Don't use an auto battery charger,
they'll shorten the life of M/C batteries from over
charging. I'd recommend either a Sears motorcycle battery charger, or a Battery Tender.
The advantage of the Battery Tender is that you can leave it plugged in,
and it automatically maintains the optimal charge
all winter, just like the way an alternator charges it.
Tires
Last, don't forget about the effect of cold on your
tires ! When the temperature drops
so does tire pressure, which causes flat spots and dry rot !! Take the
weight off both tires either by parking your bike up on it's center stand, or
with front &
rear stands.
Are you getting a new bike soon ??
Check this article out:
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